The Days of the Dead, now almost as popular in parts of the U.S. as in Mexico, are celebrated Nov. 1-2 and are shrouded in centuries-old customs.
The construction of altars to lost loved ones is one such tradition. In addition to photos, special breads and sugar skulls, people often leave bottles of a deceased loved one's favorite liquid spirit on their altar in tribute. Tequila, of course, appears frequently.
Tequila plays a part in yet another practice, that of spilling some on the ground so that the returning spirits may partake of it without dealing with pesky bottle caps. If you're paying homage to several of the dear departed and happen to have a handle of tequila at hand, then by all means go for it. I prefer to think that toasting them with a special cocktail is a better, win-win way to go.
To get into the spirit at Cuishe's bar in St. Paul Square, it will help to read its retelling of the legend of Mayahuel. The story involves drunken rabbits, graves and a wicked grandmother. The menu begins with cantaritos, cocktails served in various sizes of clay cups. Rounds of curated shots, frozen or infused, follow. Next we come to what Cuishe calls"Mexologia," which is further broken down into Mezcaleria and Tequileria cocktails.
The bar at Mixtli — unlike the restaurant, no reservations are required — is small but mighty. Think of the space itself as a kind of altar to the spirits of Mexico. Most of the base ingredients, whether used straight from the bottle or modified through techniques such as fat washing, will be ones most of us don't regularly have on our own back bars, but that's what makes this such an adventure.
I left Mixtli's bar inspired to concoct a cocktail of my own — but one that didn't use especially exotic ingredients. If you're inspired to make it, it's likely you may have to buy only one bottle you don't already have: Ancho Reyes ancho liqueur. It's great with agave spirits, gin, even rum. Here it is:Add all ingredients to an ice-filled tin and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled coupe with a Tajin-dipped rim if desired. Squeeze lime peel over drink and drop in.
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