SJP's Christopher John Rogers gown is a thoughtful tribute to the late 19th-century designer Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley.
as the first Black female fashion designer in the White House. A former slave who moved from Virginia to D.C. in 1860, Keckley went on to become the official dressmaker to first lady Mary Todd Lincoln. . “She was a smaller designer, and someone that people don’t really talk about,” says Rogers. “The idea was to highlight the dichotomy between the extravagant, over-the-top proportions of the time period, and the disparity that was happening in America at the time.
in the 1860s . “It was this cape, and a black and white gingham-plaid gown underneath,” says Rogers. “It was the starting point for us – and since we’re known for using plaids and taffeta, it was already in the wheelhouse of what we do.” The inspiration resulted in Rogers designing a black-and-white fitted top and ballgown skirt with a train, made of silk faille, moire, and taffeta with Swarovski-crystal buttons. “We took the idea of a small gingham and really blew it up,” says Rogers.
During the design process, Roger and Parker focused on how to streamline the archival design to make it feel more modern and current. “We didn’t do the cape – we turned it into a top, with an emphasis on the décolletage,” says Rogers. “In lieu of a lot of embroidery, we also kept it simple, but the fabrics are super luxe.” For Rogers, collaborating with Parker also resulted in a few special details that the designer hadn’t considered.
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