After 27 years at the house, and 13 at its helm, Sarah Burton’s final Spring/Summer 2024 Alexander McQueen collection centred on intense, powerful femininity, writes Alexander Fury
began with a brief black dress sliced open at the heart. How’s that for symbolism? And it was fitting, given that Burton,has undoubtedly poured her heart and soul into collections that have, in some way, shifted the needle of fashion.
The show was dedicated, in part, to his memory, as delineated in the succinct statement released by Burton: The notion of stripping away cloth – and even skin – to expose the fundamental structures beneath is something keyed to the identity of McQueen. Burton peeled off the layers of her tailoring, paring it back to exoskeletons that framed the body. Other pieces emphasised the figure, expanding the anatomy, exaggerating and amplifying the form within – empowering. Intentional or not, the slicing around the figure focussed around the heart – one corset was dubbed ‘Open Heart’.
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