Saint Laurent's Resort 2023 collection is in. See every look:
Bring it on, 2023. OK, I say that, but let’s put a few conditions on that statement, fashion-wise at least. Bring it on by all means, but maybe without the recent penchant for brutal trends, microtrends, or trends with absolutely any prefix at all. Don’t know about you, but the eye—my eye, I am talking about here—is being drawn to, and is staying fixed on, clothes which carry some resonance of longevity, of non-disposability, and of joy from their creation and making.
I am basing this statement on the strength of his spring 2023 collection. The familiar made new, the new made familiar, and in a palette that’s the definition of classic—ivory, sand, gold, earth brown, and black, with the occasional splashes of teal blue, burnt orange, and blush pink, and all worn with elegant spike-heeled slingbacks or diamanté ankle strap sandals.
All the YSL-isms are here, but adjusted because Vaccarello has that ineffable way of remaking their proportions to feel totally right for the moment we’re in: the shoulderline of a smoking given a distinctive jut; pants cut with a killer flare from the knees, a slink in every step; and, Saint Laurent’s eternal columnar evening getting a scissoring to make it resonate with Gen H 24/7, the archetypal slim dress transformed into a crop top and a sinuous skirt.
For Vaccarello, his spring and fall collections have been the link, the curtain opener or closer, as it were, on his summer and winter shows, and it’s always intriguing to see how the former link and flow into the latter. Spring has plenty of that going on: a trench thrown over an ankle length dress evokes last winter, while the long minimalistic lines of the jersey dresses are a precursor to his big bold shouldered summer.
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