From thrilling Japanese-Peruvian fare to a humble yet fragrant rice noodle roll, here are the stand-out New York restaurants of the year, according to EaterNY's chief critic qualityrye
, though Rick Easton doesn’t always make things simple. The shop can open an hour later than advertised, and the slices sometimes boast enough salt to jolt a hibernating polar bear. But at its best, the bread crackles and flakes with the fragile resistance of a croissant; the mozz oozes, and the tomatoes do their best savory impersonation of pure MSG.
As Jean-Georges Vongerichten continues to open up copycat restaurants around the world, his son Cedric is slinging top notchsop buntut , rich Javanese oxtail soup laced with cilantro. And he grills chicken satay with peanut sauce so softly that it evokes a rich Southeast Asian take on blanquette de veau.Stefano Secchi, an alum of Osteria Francescana, has given New York it’s best Italian restaurant since Lilia and a $90 pasta tasting as nuanced as a stratospherically-priced sushi omakase. Good luck getting in.Manhattan is practically swimming in omakase parlors. It would be tough to declare any one of them the best as they all bring subtly different approaches to the art of raw or cured fish over rice. A meal at, however, is particularly breathtaking, with chef Nozomu Abe using the bar as a stage to dismember live king crab, to gril eel over eucalyptus, and to form ethereal bites of nigiri. At $325, the cost is high, but there’s an equally majestic side room, selling sushi only for $175, service-included.As Eurocentric boulangeries sprout up throughout Manhattan, New York’s thriving yet undervalued Sinosphere bakeries remain clustered around the city’s Chinatowns. This is partly what makes Josh Ku, Trigg Brown, and Jesse Shapell’s bakery, located in East Williamsburg, stand out. The other thing that sets it apart is the fine work of Danielle Spencer. The pastry chef sends out salty-sweet mochi doughnuts, almost as chewy as gum drops, and red rice yeast doughnuts, packing a Vegemite-style tang.As high profile rice noodle shops expand to Manhattan, from Joe’s to Guangdong import Yin Ji, the one I can’t stop thinking about is the smallest and humblest of then all. The tiny room at Yi Ji smells of rice as sweetly as a posh cookie shop smells of good cookie dough, while layers of noodles, sometimes laced with funky shrimp, exhibit no less complexity or firmness than tagliarini.If one were to look for an all-day restaurant so bright and white that it requires sunglasses, Nate Adler’s
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