Ruth E. Carter Looks Back at Her Costume Design Legacy in Her Newest Style Tome

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Ruth E. Carter Looks Back at Her Costume Design Legacy in Her Newest Style Tome
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In an exclusive excerpt from The Art of Ruth E. Carter, the two-time Oscar winner remembers crafting the clothing of Do the Right Thing

A year after successfully meeting the many challenges on Spike Lee’s first studio film,, I returned, by Spike’s invitation, to Brooklyn’s own 40 Acres and a Mule to talk about beginning his latest work,It was exciting to pair up with Spike again. I had hoped that he thought I did a good job and wanted me back. Spike is very hands-on when it comes to the who, what, where, and how of his projects. If you are participating, it is becausesaid so.

Spike sat across the table, looking down into his handwritten address book, and spewed off the personal telephone numbers of the cast he’d chosen for the film: John Turturro, Rosie Perez, Bill Nunn, and others, some of whom seemed to be personal friends of Spike’s. “Here. Take this number down. That’s John Turturro. Call him today. He has some ideas for his costume.”

The leather necklaces worn by Buggin Out were also requested by Spike. It was in style to wear something African in Brooklyn and Harlem. Culture was everywhere. But it was truly in direct opposition to the massive amounts of gold being worn by many other urban youths, especially Black inner-city kids. Spike would have none of that. Instead, he insisted on these handwoven necklaces, which were purchased off the tables of street vendors from Brooklyn to Harlem. They were very popular.

Mookie’s second look was a bowling shirt in the colors of the Italian flag: red, green, and white. This idea came directly from Spike. I chose the style and embroidered “Sals Famous Pizzária” on the back. He wore compression shorts that were yellow and green, underneath cotton basketball shorts. The colors of his socks—also yellow and green—coordinated with the whole outfit. And, of course, he was to wear Nike shoes handed to me by Spike himself: Air Trainer 3 Medicine Balls.

The whole neighborhood enters Sal’s for pizza at some point. The colors they wear are in direct opposition to the black-and-white photographs on the wall.Da Mayor wakes up and proclaims, “It’s hot!” When early mornings are hot, it’s a warning that something crazy is about to happen. The mayor hustles down to Sal’s Famous to sweep the front walk for small change. I put Da Mayor in a seersucker suit that I aged down.

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