Rick Steves writes of Kraków, known as the Boston of Poland – a charming and vital city buzzing with history, college students, and tourists.
Though not the capital, Kraków is the cultural and intellectual center of the country – and easily Poland’s best destination.
Facing the square, the imposing St. Mary’s Church – with its distinctive twin towers – has long been an icon of the city. Each midday, crowds gather inside for a medieval moment as a nun swings open the church’s much-adored altarpiece. This exquisite Gothic polyptych – an altarpiece with pivoting panels – was carved in the late 1400s by Veit Stoss. One of the most impressive medieval woodcarvings in existence, it depicts the death of the Virgin with emotion rare in Gothic art.
Like so many other Jewish communities in Europe, Kazimierz was decimated during the Holocaust. The fragile remains of the community, historic exhibits, and synagogues provide a meditative look at how the town was walled in and its residents eventually shipped off by the Nazis to be exterminated. In the old Jewish cemeteries, fragments of headstones – broken under Nazi tank treads – now make up moving mosaic walls and Holocaust monuments.
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