Review: Ummo chef José Sosa explores inventive Italian, with octopus chicharrón, in River North

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Review: Ummo chef José Sosa explores inventive Italian, with octopus chicharrón, in River North
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José Sosa, previously executive chef at Gibsons Italia, cooks perfect pasta, steak and octopus chicharrón inspired by Mexico.

José Sosa might have cooked for you already. Even if you haven’t had a chance to visit his debut restaurant, which opened in August in the River North neighborhood of Chicago. The chef and partner describes his menu simply as contemporary Italian, but it’s more than that. Ummo is the surprising exploration of inventive dishes tempered by personal culture and chosen traditions. Sosa was most recently the executive chef at Gibsons Italia.

Sosa didn’t attend high school, but went to English classes and earned his GED diploma. Through the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals program, he received his first work permit. But his first job here began before that. “It was this restaurant called the Rosewood in Rosemont,” the chef said. It was a white tablecloth establishment open for 23 years, before closing in 2014. “They used to make veal stock, au jus, everything from scratch. Really nice. I learned a lot.

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