Daily News | Review: The Choice in Bryn Mawr serves European classics and helps to support Ukraine
Somewhere between bites of duck Canton and the sea bass wrapped in a crispy jacket of sheer potato, I looked up as the door swung open to the Choice restaurant in Bryn Mawr as a customer stepped into the glass foyer.
You would not know simply from looking at the large menu here, which ranges from ceviche to teriyaki, steaks and foie gras-enriched French cuisine, that this restaurant is owned by two Ukrainian families, including Iryna’s brother Igor Hamushchak and his wife, Maryana. Igor and Vlad have been friends since kindergarten.
Nobu in London, where he rose to sous-chef over the course of six years, and Bond Street in Manhattan, gave him a deep appreciation for Japanese flavors, while time spent at Le Cirque, Alain Ducasse and Jean-Georges in the late 2000s inspired his enthusiasm for classic French techniques. Vlad’s tastes lean toward well-practiced Asian fusion classics and vintage nouvelle cuisine that benefitted from its own Asian influence, like his ode toThe dish was created by the legendary Daniel Boulud at Le Cirque in 1986, after new access to Japanese mandolins unlocked the key to slicing potatoes into the paper thin sheets used to wrap fish inside crisp tubes that could be placed over creamy leeks and a red butter sauce that begins with reducing wine to a tenth of its original volume.
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