Review: The Capitol Centre restaurant offering lunch for under a tenner

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Review: The Capitol Centre restaurant offering lunch for under a tenner
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Bella Maria is located next to VUE at the Capitol Centre Pic: Bella Maria / Facebook This week my mother Yvonne, my daughter GZ and I paid a visit

It was the first time any of us had eaten there, despite it being walking distance from Yvonne’s home, because we’d all independently assumed that it was yet another Italian-style, mediocre chain restaurant. That’s probably due to the “Bella” in the name combined with the advertising banners, menus and generally polished look of the place.

The chicken was beautifully tender and mildly spiced in a marinade that added flavour without much heat, and was liberally smothered with a creamy, tangy, tzatziki style sauce. It lay on slices of pitta bread that bore little resemblance to the dense, supermarket offerings that maintain the temperature of Satan’s armpit as you try to open them before becoming floppy, grey and sullen the moment you succeed. These pitta were fluffy yet slightly crispy in all the right places.

As this wasn’t my first plate swapping rodeo I didn’t ask what she thought until we’d finished our meals, because I didn’t want to feel guilty and offer to swap back. However, I tried a little scoop and agreed that the sharp acidity of the tomatoes amplified the slightly sour taste of the feta and wasn’t toned down or balanced with any sweetness in the sauce.

For a truly authentic ’80s Italian restaurant experience these ancient three-footers must grind no more than two peppercorns per hour, and the waiter must move around the table asking each diner if they’d like some before giving the base a half twist in the vague direction of their plate and challenging, “Is that enough?”.

Personally, I’m happy to tip good or passable service, but I don’t like it being added on automatically. It takes from customers the opportunity to do something nice by adding a tip in recognition of a job well done, forcing them instead to accept either the money grab or the awkwardness of asking for it to be removed.

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