Review: Onda, the most anticipated new restaurant in Los Angeles, is still finding its sea legs

Critic Patricia Escárcega reviews the eagerly anticipated new Santa Monica restaurant from Sqirl's Jessica Koslow and Mexican restaurateur and chef Gabriela Cámara.

Onda sits at the edge of the new Santa Monica Proper Hotel in a modest 1920s-era building on Wilshire Boulevard that’s probably not what you think of when you imagine the hottest new restaurant in town.

Clockwise from top: Inside out turkey quesadilla, smoked trout tostada, heirloom corn tortillas, and whole tapioca-fried sea bream at Onda. Chef/partner Jessica Koslow, left, and chef de cuisine Balo Orozco pose for a portrait at Onda in Santa Monica. The dish that everyone talks about is the inside-out turkey quesadilla, a folded-over tortilla laminated on the outside with fried cheese and filled with marinated turkey, hoja santa and oyster mushrooms, which are woefully upstaged by the boggy envelope of sodden, oil-veneered cheese. It’s a dish overly concerned with technique, and hard to reckon with its $27 price tag.

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