Review: How the Petit Trois and Jon & Vinny’s sequels measure up to the originals

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Review: How the Petit Trois and Jon & Vinny’s sequels measure up to the originals
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'This is a town that understands the perils and possibilities of sequels. This is also a town that loves the restaurants of Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.' Our restaurant critic reviews what happened when the two combined.

A lunch spread at Jon & Vinny's in Brentwood includes the Roman Gladiator pizza, mozzarella sticks, grilled chicken and rigatoni with broccolini.

Without fail, every person I meet for a meal at the second Petit Trois walks in the door, stops short and exclaims, in some variation, “I feel like I’m in Paris!” The space splits the difference between intimate bistro and soaring brasserie: a central bar of thick marble, mirrors and gold framing; Belle Époque-style chandeliers; black and white checkered floors; leather banquettes in a cool minty green; a ceiling wallpapered in leafy print that gives the impression of a promenade in...

The Valley location, in operation for a year now, is slowly developing its own culinary character. The two menus share many of the same dishes. A reconstruction of a classic endive salad, terrific at either location, is pure Lefebvre: Shaved Ubriaco cheese blankets the pale spears, which in turn hide hunks of avocado, slithering slips of anchovy and a walloping vinaigrette of ground walnuts that resembles freshly mulched earth. So many layers, so much flavor.

Shook and Dotolo serve primarily as advisors and backers for the Petit Trois restaurants; this is Lefebvre’s show. In interviews right before the Sherman Oaks location came to life, the Burgundy native talked about the traditional French repertoire he yearns to tackle. That direction isn’t yet in abundant evidence on the Valley menu; here or at another venture, it’s the progression in his career I’m most excited for him to next pursue.

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