At Jiang Nan Spring in the SGV, Shanghai specialities go far beyond soup dumplings. Review by BillAddison.
Yan du xian, listed on the menu as"smoked and fresh pork warm pot," makes an ideal centerpiece for a meal at Jiang Nan Spring. — double pork soup with bamboo shoots — he’s just hoisted onto the table, and then he makes a grand pronouncement over it in Mandarin and slips away. A friend dining with me translates his words: “If a chef doesn’t know how to make this dish properly, he isn’t from Shanghai.
The soup, beyond its show of skill, makes an ideal symbolic start to a meal: It epitomizes the restaurant’s name.is traditionally a springtime palliative; it’s also a staple of the Jiangnan region, an area of China defined by the Yangtze River Delta whose cuisine includes the cooking of Shanghai but also culinary traditions from neighboring cities Hangzhou, Ningbo and Shaoxing.
Lion’s head pork meatballs have a proper silken lightness. Nubs of scarlet pork ribs veer way further into sweetness than is often common; I’m much more taken with a gem I’ve rarely seen on menus in America:, boneless cylinders of pork rib meat smeared with rice flour and steamed in fragrant lotus leaves. Open the leafy bundles and the mingled perfumes, sharpened by a fermented wheat paste calledrise like voices in a cathedral.
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