Review: At Go’s mart, Hi-Chew and VHS rentals vanished. The sushi is still amazing

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Review: At Go’s mart, Hi-Chew and VHS rentals vanished. The sushi is still amazing
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Review: Review: At Go’s mart, Hi-Chew and VHS rentals vanished. The sushi is still amazing

The sign above Go’s Mart spells out “SUSHI” in a thick green font, but the name of the Canoga Park restaurant holds true in origin: Husband and wife Tsuyoshi and Chiemi Kawano started their business as a Japanese market in 1997.

These days the space is all sushiya. How to describe the shade of paint on the walls? It is electric tangerine, a blast of orange so engulfing it feels as if you’re eating nigiri in a Roald Dahl story. Scattered tables fill the room, though a seat at the bar creates the most satisfying immediacy between chef and diner.“Go” is Tsuyoshi’s nickname; his regulars call him “Go-san.” He begins the meal by asking if there’s anything you don’t want or that you particularly like.

Mejina , triggerfish and kelp-marinated halibut topped with cherry blossom, a seasonal garnish Tsuyoshi Kawano occasionally uses.

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