Pasta maestro Evan Funke creates a Hollywood sensation at his new paean to Roman cooking
Mother Wolf is a different animal altogether. Celebrities, most of themensconced in a private room, and Hollywood players have poured through the doors since the restaurant’s first week. Perhaps a preopening listening party held by Kanye West soon after he officially changed his name to Ye set the tone.
Branzino alla brace, carciofi e prosciutto pizza, spaghettone alla gricia and bucatini con cicoria from Mother Wolf.The solid framework of his Roman menu will help; it’s a regional focus he’s previously workshopped. At Felix, Funke surveys the breadth of Italy, serving tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese alongside a Sicilian classic of spaghetti covered in anchovies and breadcrumbs and a whopping Florentine-style ribeye.
The camera would pan over Funke’s shoulder for a full-circle view of dinner service in action. Flames erupt from the grill in the back of the open kitchen. A sweep of the opulent 150-seat dining room: candy apple-colored tiles and brick-red leather, gilded Murano blown-glass chandeliers, smoky mirrors, knotty hardwoods and etchings of pomegranates and lemons around the borders of the sky-high ceilings. Bodies in motion start to blur as daylight fades beyond the picture windows.
And the somm team does expertly guide you through a labyrinth of prices, regions and style; an herby, apple-scented Falanghina from Campania might carry you through an evening as happily as it did me.Starters set the Roman sense of place straightaway. Fried squash blossoms arrive stuffed with ricotta and Parmigiano Reggiano: They’re clouds in soft, sunset stripes, billowy except for the satisfyingly meaty bit near the stems.
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