For piescarcega, Leo Bulgarini’s handmade pasta and artisanal gelato-filled “Chef’s Table” dinner is “perhaps the most pleasantly eccentric meal in this corner of Greater Los Angeles.”
"You should go back to the States and use our products,” a corporate rep scolded. “It's too hard to make gelato from scratch.”
And he will speak to you about them in a space tucked behind a Rite Aid drugstore in an obscure strip mall alleyway; the shop is a dim, shoe box-shaped space, a kitchen workshop more than a traditional dining room. You will sit on a stool at a tall communal table, an arm’s length away from an industrial refrigerator filled with imported chocolates, jars of homemade pesto and chilled wine.
You will want to make a reservation. Bulgarini makes a limited amount of pasta every day, and you don’t want to schlep all the way to the San Gabriel foothills only to find the tagliatelle has sold out for the day. With a reservation in hand, Bulgarini is waiting for you. He shakes your hand and pours you a glass of the dark red Zinfandel that he makes himself in Santa Barbara — smooth, deeply flavored, with a hint of dead-ripe cherries.
His cooking is centered around clean, classic Tuscan-style pasta dishes, made with ingredients that are neither magnified nor perfected but simply allowed to exist. There is a lovely, a swirl of long, plump, hand-rolled noodles served in a tangy tomato-garlic sauce. There is what Bulgarini calls his signature dish: pappardelle al cinghiale, a mild egg noodle pasta bolstered by an earthy ragu of wild boar.
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