Helen Rosner reviews Zimmi’s, a Provençal restaurant in the West Village from Jenni Guizio and the chef Maxime Pradié.
Zimmi’s occupies a tiny, charming storefront positioned on a tiny, charming corner of the West Village . Its large, wall-size windows, their casements painted a downy shade of white, look out across Bedford Street onto a row of old and characterful brownstones, including number 75½, whose façade, at nine and a half feet across, is allegedly the city’s narrowest .
But there’s just as much sumptuousness to be found in humble preparations such as the terrine du potager, a slice of tender winter vegetables, chilled and gently aspic-bound, arranged chromatically—white leek shading into green leek, into orange carrot, into red pepper—plated next to a dollop of anchovy aioli; or in the lentils, which are braised to a texture as firm yet unctuously yielding as any caviar pearls.
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