Helen Rosner reviews the new Times Square location of the Chinese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung, noted for its dim sum and soup dumplings.
The scale and the spectacle of it all is remarkable in person, from the restaurant’s dramatic descent-into-the-earth staircase to the human-size bronze sculpture of an anthropomorphic soup dumpling and the dining room so enormous that its vastness can appear to be a cognitive glitch, some kind of mirror trick or optical illusion. The brand had more modest beginnings, with the founding of a family-run cooking-oil business in Taipei, in 1958.
A pork-and-crab iteration was heavy on the crab, with an appealingly intense minerality. For the high rollers, there’s a deluxe pork-and-truffle option, at twenty-eight dollars for a mere five dumplings but worthy of the price, with huge slices of black truffle slipped inside the wrapper with the meat, making the whole package earthy and wild.
Taiwan Midtown Times Square Dim Sum Dumplings
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