Reflecting on the legacy of Doreen Gamboa Fernandez (via FnBReport )
Photos from Doreen Gamboa Fernandez Facebook courtesy of Maya Besa-RoxasTo be a serious student of Philippine regional cooking and of Philippine cuisine in general, one must read about Doreen Gamboa Fernandez. Though not the first to delve into the field, she is credited with distilling research through readings and observation into articles, columns, and books.
While definite in her observation in her essay “Culture Ingested: Notes on the Indigenization of Philippine Food,” that even with all the foreign influences, [Philippine] cuisine has been “enriched rather than bastardized, its integrity kept, its dynamism that of judicious response to change,” Fernandez still had questions.
When research was made mandatory and included in the scoring of judges, the entries became more serious reads. Now in its 15th year, the Doreen Gamboa Fernandez Food Writing Award can boast winners who are culinary writers of note today whose output has contributed to Philippine food literature as the organizers intended.
My first meeting with her revealed how she read other sources, even a neophyte food writer. At the launch of the book “Sarap,” when I told her my name at the signing she said, “Oh, you’re the one!” And then she wrote: “I’m a fan of yours.” More than being flattered, it gave me the encouragement to keep on writing about food.
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