A uniquely South African tradition, Hilary Biller shares her grandmother's treasured pickled fish recipe.
The combination of hot cross buns and pickled fish is said to have originated in the Cape. Unusual as it may sound, we South Africans have a penchant for combining sweet/sour flavours and Cape Malay-style pickled fish, which is layered fillets of fish in a spicy blend of onions in a yellow vinegary sauce, is said to symbolise the vinegar given to Christ at his crucifixion.
Pickled fish reminds me of my maternal grandmother, an excellent cook of traditional South African food. I have vivid memories of delicious Sunday lunches in my grandparents' Pretoria home, where one could pick up the evocative aromas from her kitchen as we drove down the driveway. Her ritual, undertaken a week before Easter, was to prepare a large batch of pickled fish. I’d watch as she’d carefully cut the fish, her choice hake, into serving pieces. Her hands stained with curry, she would carefully slice a mountain of onions into thick rings, saying they must be thick so they were still crisp and crunchy when cooked.
The kitchen would fill with a vinegary haze that overpowered the smell of fried fish and when done, she would carefully arrange the fish and vinegary onions in the curry sauce in layers in her large glass Pyrex dish, which she’d cover so nobody could touch it till the Easter weekend.
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