Queen Elizabeth, fashion icon? Yes.

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Queen Elizabeth, fashion icon? Yes.
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Queen Elizabeth II undoubtedly had a uniform that set a standard in politics and diplomacy.

, who died Thursday at age 96 after reigning for more than 70 years, undoubtedly had a uniform. In her early years on the throne, in her 20s and 30s, the young queen was known to wear practical but elegant clothes. She wore gowns with clean lines and full skirts at formal events and artfully tailored skirt suits and dresses in the daytime, un-daring in the necklines and nipped in at the waists.

But the queen’s wardrobe was consistently imbued with deeper meanings, seen as conveying support or affection for other countries and communities, or even asserting power, when necessary. And because Elizabeth’s reign began in 1952, a time before women were regularly seen at the highest levels of government in the Western world, she helped set a standard in politics-adjacent womenswear.

But in public, and in her later years especially, “I think she always wanted to be two things: reassuring and recognizable,” Mansel says. Being an instantly identifiable pillar of color was her way of “trying to reassure people, despite all the changes going on.

Indeed, Queen Elizabeth famously insisted on a rather formal dress code for royal events. Once, in 2002, she chastised a BBC cameraman at a Royal Ascot event for failing to wear a. The stylish-but-modest daytime dress code that Kate Middleton, Meghan Markle, Camilla Parker Bowles and others have followed strictly in their time as members of the royal family is a tradition that dates back to Elizabeth’s mother and grandmother, Mansel says.

The one person who tried to break the mold, Mansel adds, was Princess Diana. Her style, especially when she was married to now King Charles III, deviated subtly from the royal formula, sometimes incorporating more masculine or more girlish touches, like

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