Prabal Gurung's fall 2023 collection explored the liminal space between a night out and the morning after, blending comfort, familiarity, and the transformative power of transition. While initially promising a deeper exploration of male/female tropes and the uncertainty of the times, the collection ultimately veered towards more traditional eveningwear, leaving a sense of ambiguity.
For his fall 2023 collection, designer Prabal Gurung drew inspiration from the liminal space between a night out and the morning after. He envisioned a woman emerging in borrowed clothes, a bit disheveled and unguarded. To capture this essence, Gurung presented sweaters worn upside down as impromptu shawls and utilized washing and fabric manipulation techniques to create a lived-in look. He envisioned voluminous faux fur coats being worn casually, grabbed for on the way out the door.
Undone collars and tops, perhaps referencing Gurung's own penchant for a slightly undone aesthetic, added to the relaxed feel. A standout look was a black leather pant paired with a roomy white Oxford shirt, a personal favorite of the designer. The collection also explored themes of comfort and familiarity, with double-faced cashmere toppers and fur-trimmed pieces aiming to provide a sense of security and warmth.Gurung seamlessly blended Eastern and Western influences, with kimono-inspired coats resembling the cocoon shapes associated with Paul Poiret. A mannish, oversized peacoat in a plaid with a pink component also offered a sense of protection and shelter. The collection, titled after Gurung's upcoming book, aimed to delve into the interplay between male and female tropes and the transition from night to day, reflecting perhaps the uncertainty of the times. However, the designer ultimately leaned towards straightforward eveningwear, seemingly abandoning the initial thematic exploration. The result was a collection lacking a clear direction, as if caught between two paths and unable to commit to one
Prabal Gurung Fall 2023 Fashion Collection Transition Uncertainty Eveningwear Male/Female Tropes
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