One of the world's most powerful restaurant critics, New York Times columnist Pete Wells filed his final review this summer. He reflects on dining out five nights a week for the past 12 years, all in the line of duty.
Ryan Bartlow, the chef and co-owner of Ernesto's, a Basque restaurant in Manhattan, revealed the dirty little secret New York City restaurants don't like owning up to: Tucked in a cabinet above the service station was a photograph of Pete Wells, just in case a server suspected The New York Times restaurant critic might have been sitting a few feet away.
It was, he affirmed, like the Nathan's hot dog eating contest, but in slow motion: 'At the end of the night I do feel like I've eaten a mile of hot dogs.' Triniciti Roti Shop is a Trinidad/Tobago-style take-out near Kennedy Airport, and #18 on his 2024 New York Times Best 100 list. Wells has been criticized for ranking places like this above fancy, Michelin-starred temples of fine dining in Manhattan, like Jean-Georges .
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