The former creative director of John Lobb and designer of the label 1205 is now offering chic second-skin knits, covetable jewelry, and bespoke suiting.
Paula Gerbase was burnt out. The designer had spent years grinding away in the fast-paced gears of the fashion industry, working for a time as the creative director of sportswear label Sunspel and later, John Lobb. All the while, she was helming her own label of sharp, minimal clothes called 1205. Gerbase says that she thinks “the fashion system definitely works for some designers, but for me, it felt stifling to work with a restrictive schedule and only in one modality.
“Gerbase. definitely started as a very personal project,” the designer explains. “It’s really expressing what it is that I want to wear now, with no boundaries. I’m designing for a woman of depth, not severity.” The new clothes do indeed speak to a woman who is looking for strength in her wardrobe, things that are relevant to the recent advent towards tailoring, which we saw come down the Fall 2019 runways. For Gerbase, it’s also about making clothes that move freely with the body.
In addition to Gerbase’s tailoring skills and her use of technical yarns, she is also exploring the idea of artisan jewelry–making in this next phase of her career. “I was interested in something more decorative,” she says. “I was researching my family history and the idea that heirlooms sometimes take on a life of their own.
All of the jewelry is made locally too, at a studio in Hatton Garden, which is the fine jewelry hub of the city and only a stone’s throw from Gerbase’s atelier. “It’s a rare thing nowadays for a designer to be so close to the making of the pieces,” she says. “It feels quite special to have that on our doorstep.” Gerbase adds, “Working with artisans but also exploring industrial techniques has allowed for cross-pollination, which has really fed the way we are able to evolve freely as a brand.
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