Patrick Kelly Dressed Everyone From Princess Diana to Grace Jones in the '80s — and His Work Is Still Relevant Today

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Patrick Kelly Dressed Everyone From Princess Diana to Grace Jones in the '80s — and His Work Is Still Relevant Today
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Patrick Kelly's designs were colorful and cheeky, often incorporating unexpected elements ranging from mismatched buttons to racially-charged imagery:

He referred to himself as the "black, male Lucille Ball." Essence considered him "a breath of fresh air in an industry that often takes itself too seriously." He dressed the likes of Grace Jones, Princess Diana and Paloma Picasso, and was known for his exuberant designs and spirited runways. For many, Patrick Kelly represented joy.

To prepare for this project, Adams immersed himself in Kelly’s archives at the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture in New York. He discovered a trove of artifacts including sketches, swatches, memorabilia, and personal correspondence belonging to the African-American designer — all of which laid the groundwork for an exhibit that first debuted at the Studio Museum in Harlem in 2017.

Kelly's interest in fashion came from the women in his life — and particularly the fashion magazines his domestic-worker grandmother would bring back from the homes she cleaned to give to him. "He'd look through those and really loved the images that were in them but he also noticed black people were not in those magazines," Pritchard said on "Dressed." "He knew that black culture and style was important enough and significant enough to be the center subjects.

"I think he made it in Paris because of hard work, opportunity and serendipity," Pritchard told Fashionista. "Looking at Paris fashion in the '80s, it was an open community for creativity in work. At that time, if you had a new idea, they were really excited about the new idea." That doesn't mean his legacy isn't felt, though: Pritchard sees Kelly's work as embodying black exuberance and black joy, themes seen in the collections of Christopher John Rogers, Mimi Plange and Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss today.

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