The Palais Galliera retrospective will feature 150 pieces from the late designer's archive.
, with garments densely packed in the basement of his headquarters on Rue de Moussy in Paris. The collection has since been catalogued and is now kept in museum-grade warehouses.
Alaïa began collecting in 1968, when Balenciaga closed his haute couture atelier and Madame Renée, who headed the workshop, invited“It was the world’s biggest private collection of haute couture and he started collecting very early,” Saillard told WWD. “It was to protect the heritage. He couldn’t help it. He felt an urgent need to safeguard the memory not only of the couturiers, but also of the workshops that produced the clothes.
The collection reflects Alaïa’s own tastes as much as the talent of the designers he admired. Saillard noted, for example, a preponderance of black, red and blue outfits, and he said Alaïa collected U.S. designers such as Charles James, Adrian and Claire McCardell, whose work has been largely overlooked by French institutions.
The exhibition will provide the first glimpse of the collection, with a selection of some 150 pieces. Alaïa owned 900 designs by Madame Grès alone, making the selection process a challenging one. “It was difficult, because there are so many masterpieces,” said Saillard. “It’s like having a third fashion museum in France.”
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