Unique high jewelry designs, techniques & gemstones trended at Paris Couture Fashion Week from jewelers like Cartier, Boucheron, De Beers, and Hermès.
Houses such as Boucheron and Fred brought out new collections inspired by far-flung destinations, from the waters of Iceland to the lights of Buenos Aires. Others including Chaumet, De Beers Jewellers and Hermès went with graphic and nearly abstract interpretations of arts of the stage, Africa’s majestic fauna or color theory.
“Luxury slowdown is happening but it’s a real good chance for a brand like us to catch up with the competitors running ahead of us,” he said. “Creativity is always good at the end of the day, regardless of the period. It’s not because the period is very positive for everyone that you should go for the low-hanging fruits because then you’re paving way for a downturn in the future,” Bos continued.“High jewelry is actually growing faster than price ranges and this is the same for all brands. Business-wise, it is very important and exciting,” said Chaumet CEO Charles Leung.
Among the standouts were the Ballet necklace with sapphire and diamond-set white gold petals curling around for a helicoidal necklace finished with three Ceylon sapphires weighing between 5 and 8 carats, and the Tango necklace, featuring cushion- and pear-cut rubellites and tourmalines nestled in its white gold spirals that end with a 46-carat indicolite pear.
In addition to heirloom pieces featuring rare diamonds, high jewelry clients valued the distinctive use of rough stones and color gradients, Assimon continued. “For me innovation is not important, it’s the right thing to do to express the concept in the best way,” said Choisne. They came big like the amethysts and kunzites on Buccellati’s Cocktail rings, part of a showcase of a century’s worth of masterpieces from the Italian house that continued its anniversary exhibition from Venice, or small, like the Umba sapphires dotted in a gold mesh cuff in Cartier’s Tutti-tutti collection, part of its Cartier Libre designs.
The “energy and magnetism” of stones is also what Eugenia Bruni, creative director of Pasquale Bruni, said guide her hand when selecting what she will turn into the creations of the house, which included an opulent necklace and adjoining suite of jewels featuring blush pink morganites. “We all know this story of the spinel that was long thought to be a ruby on the Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom. These are stones that are incredible and today, it’s difficult to find such exceptional materials.”
Hence the cautious approach of Mikimoto, despite growth that’s being seen particularly in the U.S. “We are always looking to expand but we are very careful because in general, pearls are getting scarcer,” said Kentaro Nishimura, chief operating officer of Mikimoto America. In recent decades, the production of cultured pearls has been declining constantly, particularly in the high jewelry quality, he added.
Among the pieces Europe-based jewelry artist Anna Hu was showcasing was a 112.32 carat non-nacreous pearl that was the start of the “Dance of Dunhuang” brooch. The voluminous gemstone figuring the flower was edged in yellow and pink diamonds as well as orange and pink sapphires, with leaves made of green titanium.
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