From Sarah Burton’s swansong for McQueen to “unpolished” classics at Valentino and Rei Kawakubo’s colourful sculptures at Comme des Garçons, the looks stayed true to brand.
Adventurous tailoring, barely-there dresses and a designer debut – plus Sarah Burton’s heartfelt last collection for Alexander McQueen.
The collection offered twists on signatures she and her team long ago perfected: black trouser suits cut out and spliced with leather; an ivory jumper sweetly crocheted with climbing roses that turned to reveal, chillingly, spinal vertebrae up the back; a round-shouldered and immaculately tailored coat embroidered to look as if it had been brushed with blood. Naomi Campbell wiped a conspicuous tear as she finished the show in a silver corset moulded, breastplate-like, over a shredded skirt.
Demna said he felt his previous collection had been too “polished”, and he’d wanted this collection to feel rougher, more like himself. “I don’t care a lot about luxury or the whole idea of it, because I don’t want to give people a proposition to look like they’re rich or successful or powerful.”It was worlds away from the clean-cut, predominantly white show Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli hosted later that afternoon under the glass-ceilinged courtyard of the École des Beaux-Arts.
Paris also played host over the weekend to Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo and her protégés Junya Watanabe and Kei Ninomiya. Kawakubo’s creations, shown in a crowded warehouse on the eastern fringes of Paris, were pure sculpture, this time joyous: “To break free of the gloomy present, I hope to present a bright and light future,” she wrote in her show notes.The clothes that Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski designs for Hermès are always wearable, and beautifully made.
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