Fresh intimacy at Chanel, humanity at Thom Browne, and a feminine coup d’etat at Miu Miu.
in its presentation of this textured, complicated woman with charged ideas and a life lived at the highest and fullest possible level. But at these other shows, showmanship was harnessed to masterful effect.
The film played behind the runway as the models walked, and though the seats went back some five rows, I was struck at how visible and within grasp the clothes are compared to Karl Lagerfeld’s enormous supermarkets and brasseries. It’s clear that Viard wants to scale down the feeling of Chanel, and remind us of those century-old clothes that touched something so much at the center of women’s lives and feelings that they recharted history.
: her T-shirt was creased as if she’d just pulled it out of the laundry bag and didn’t care to iron it. At the time, I thought it was summer nonchalance; now her rumpled Prada and Miu Miu collections have me thinking it was an experiment or a design in the making.)
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