Anna October, Boutet Solanes, Florentina Leitner, Paula Canovas, Pressiat and Ruohan are six new signatures on the Paris Fashion Week schedule for spring 2023.
Flowers and plants were translated into breezy, flirty layers and hand-knit elements inspired by antique window dressings she discovered in the archives of the Ivan Honchar Museum of folk culture in Kyiv.“I like the fact that it’s original [and] has these roots, a touch of my culture and identity,” said October, who hails from the southeastern Ukrainian town of Zaporizhzhia, where she studied tailoring and pattern cutting before moving to Odesa to enroll in its prestigious Grekov Art School.
Boutet said the brand’s aesthetics were inspired by muses like Mia Farrow in “Alice,” Sigourney Weaver in “Gorillas in the Mist” and Tilda Swinton. “[They] come with a sense of freedom, independence and are self-sufficient,” she said. “They enjoy their time on their own, they are connected with themselves. They’re strong that way.”
“After, like, four months, I got more and more attention from press and stores asking if they could buy [it],” she told WWD. “So the question was whether I should give it a try or stay in this safer environment with a cool design job.
After her 2018 graduation, she “was very broke” when the head of her master’s program introduced her to Palais de Tokyo director Vittoria Matarrese. The resulting exhibition caught the eye of Kanye West and led to a three-year consulting stint that saw Canovas del Vas work on Yeezy, Sunday Service and even West’s short film directed by Spike Jonze.
She hopes people will feel light after experiencing her universe, but “at the end of the day, we’re an industry that creates products and experiences. Whatever journeys those shoes take people on, or whatever experiences they have, is up to fate,” she concluded.
Accessories, first introduced for spring 2022, will also be included, although Nie is cautious about expanding her categories too fast. She has also developed a range of candles with a China-based lifestyle brand.
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