NYC's best new restaurant is a 186-year-old steakhouse

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NYC's best new restaurant is a 186-year-old steakhouse
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Hope you’re hungry for a ribeye and a Caesar salad.

has brought some big time buzz to the FiDi, which, except for the Stone Street boozing zone, can still feel quiet at night despite thousands of new residents.

The Delmonico’s story “began “like a fairy tale” in the Swiss mountains where “three brothers lived on a small farm,” former New York Times restaurant critic William Grimes writes in his book, “Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York.”Giovanni and Pietro Delmonico opened a cafe and pastry shop at 23 William Street in 1827 which they ran “on strictly French lines.” They later brought in their brother Francesco’s son, Lorenzo, to run the show.

Behind the triangular prow of the eight-story building the restaurant calls home, there was a buttoned lunchtime scene where Rockefellers and other stock market wheeler-dealers held court amongst pink tablecloths, Lalique crystal and plush draperies in elegantly appointed rooms on two floors.Delmonico’s has been a Financial District fixture for more than a century, but the pandemic and legal squabbles almost closed it for good.

Lello Arpaia was a waiter and manager at Delmonico’s from 1963 to 1969, before he struck out on his own to open such restaurants as Lello, Scarlatti and Bellini. He vividly recalled the exacting standards to which Oscar’s son, Mario Tucci, held his troops. But new principal owner and managing partner Dennis Turcinovic along with business partner Joseph Licul signed a lease in 2022 with a plan to bring Delmonico’s back to life. They spent $4 million on a top-to-bottom, wall-to-wall redesign that preserves the original’s splendor and spirit with coffered mahogany walls, Bernardaud china, white tablecloths and plush carpeting.

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