A handful of American cities have bars that stay open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Atlantic City has five.
My self-imposed mission was simple: spend time in Atlantic City’s 24/7 bars soaking up the vibe. Not all 24 hours — 12 out of 24 sounded like a nice round number. I should be there late-night. The very early hours of morning would be interesting, too.
But what about primetime evening hours, I wondered. Would I miss the energy that comes with peak crowds?Moving walkways bring me inside the belly of, and the smell of smoke tapers off as I head toward the gaming floors. A couple steps up is, a sleek, glowing circle with a three-tiered column at the center packed with bottles of high-end booze. A waist-high glass wall separates it from a cocktail lounge. There’s a clever circular menu with the kind of intricate cocktails invariably crafted by a consulting mixologist. The Expressway Negroni has Bacardi aged rum, Jersey tomato-infused Campari, sweet vermouth, and Castelvetrano olives. The Lucky Nucky, on draft, boasts small-batch whiskey, amaro dell’Etna, salted peanut, and root beer saltwater taffy. “Is that gross or —” The bartender shakes his head before I complete the thought and steers me to an espresso martini. I9:46 p.m. It’s thick, sweet, and pale with Irish cream, but the espresso martini is welcome nonetheless for its funnel cake garnish, served exactly how you’d expect: cold in a plastic cup. It’s the only food on offer here. The young bartender closes out his shift and waves enthusiastically at a pair of elderly women at the bar. His recently clocked-in counterpart is in constant motion, doling out bottles of beer and cocktails in plastic cups.. I confer with the couple from upstate New York next to me. Is the center moving? How do the bartenders manage? Wait, areA slight jolt confirms we, the customers, are in fact moving. It’s disorienting until we fall deeply enough into conversation to forget. We talk other casinos on my route. The Borgata, the wife says, is where thego to gamble. “Opulence,” the husband pronounces in an almost reverent tone.“Real people,” chimes in the man in the Eagles T-shirt a few stools down.Despite strong winds and a drizzle, there’s a slow but steady trickle of customers walking up the boardwalk to the. The moon looms large above the amusements in the distance, a halved pita in the sky. Inside it’s another mini-journey to the 24/7 bar: up an escalator, down a hallway, past a zillion slot machines, all windows left behind. When I find it,is bathed in blue lights. Neon hexagons are suspended above the enormous elliptical bar. Stadium-size TV screens wrap around the space, flashing up to seven different programs at a time. It occurs to me that if I really want to stay up all night, I should stay put.They don’t serve food here either, except on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 8 p.m. I could drink another dessert à la the Ocean’s 5th Birthday Cake Martini , but I opt for water and the Monday Morning Quarterback, a margarita with a generous splash of Corona for some fizz. Customers down the bar are hunched over inset gaming consoles, poker games flashing in their glasses. The woman next to me is on her third or fourth cosmopolitan, complimenting the bartender as she orders another. “His cosmo’s very light. Cotton candy light!” She insists I try a sip. On my way out, I trail another guest waddling down a long, dark hallway to the women’s room. “You can do it!” a woman at the sink encourages. The bathroom attendant joins in: “Yes, you can do it, ladies!”so I can eat something. “Just a heads-up, we are cash only,” the bartender clarifies. I order the Jersey crab cakes and a Yuengling. Irish Pub is all stained glass, lacquered wood, and Tiffany lamps. It’s the other side of Atlantic City’s coin —
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