View the entire No. 21 spring 2021 collection.
In a not-so-socially-distanced backstage, a masked Alessandro Dell’Acqua was feigning calm, but his emotion was palpable. Staging one of the few physical shows on Milan’s schedule was proving exciting, yet quite the effort. The vast warehouse space of N.21’s headquarters was arranged with an elevated catwalk running along its perimeter; chairs were scattered, giving the 150 guests plenty of space.
Dell’Acqua started the collection by making pure, linear shapes from white toile, as is done in haute couture. Squared and angular, they were softened by his sexy/grunge touch: raw, unfinished edges; slits and cutouts baring skin unexpectedly; jarring contrasts of attitude—bourgeois versus louche, disheveled versus strict. What could have resulted in a bipolar collection, actually unfurled quite smoothly in a visually compelling mix of opposites.
Dell’Acqua loves a dash of shine; he indulged his penchant using golden-infused neoprene and a bright-hued satin as glossy as a mirror. Recycled metallic studs, snaps, and safety pins were scattered on a shapely black midi dress; in their masculine version, they agglutinated galaxy-like on an oversized asymmetrical wool sweater.
The masculine/feminine dynamic has always been part of the designer’s lexicon; in this collection, it felt like he was taking an even stronger stance. “I think that pieces from both male and female wardrobes can be swapped, shared and overlapped following personal inclinations, while retaining their specific style language,” he explained. “It’s more of a communal, inclusive approach, accepting of diversity. I don’t do genderless.
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