Soft cream cheese brings a light touch to sweet and savoury summer baking. By Nigel Slater
Lunch was a late affair, as it so often is on a summer’s day. I’d taken my time over making a tart, rubbing thyme leaves into the pastry, lining the old tin carefully, meticulously patching the faintest tear to prevent the filling leaking. I brought my work to the table, still warm, its custard barely set, the gentle pinks and greens of salmon and dill interrupted only by clouds of cream cheese.
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