Kirkwood is a pioneer in the use of environmentally friendly materials and processes for luxury footwear.
LONDON — There is no underestimating how the “Back to the Future” films and other sci-fi stories have shaped Nicholas Kirkwood’s approach to design, and thoughts about the future of footwear. After seeing Marty McFly’s self-lacing Nikes in “Back to the Future Part II,” Kirkwood dreamed up his first pair of shoes, accordion-like creations that could stretch to fit every foot size.
Kirkwood plans to showcase much of the research and development that he’s been pursuing over the past few years in his spring 2021 collection, which will be 60 percent biodegradable, 20 percent chrome-free, and 20 percent using stock from his archive.Spring 2021 will also be the first time the shoes’ uppers are made from fully biodegradable materials, such as organic silk, wool, hemp, suede and nappa leather.
Luxury footwear is a famously toxin-filled, wasteful industry where new shoes are simply discarded, rather than recycled, if they don’t pass quality control. It is also a challenging industry for the eco-minded: Unlike clothing, footwear’s various components need to be held together by glue, while the tanning process regularly dumps metal- and chrome-based chemicals into the environment.
“And in many cases, it takes a huge amount of money and time to develop these materials or techniques to make these things happen. They’re in a better position to start that ball rolling.”
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