Critic Patricia Escárcega answers a reader's question: Who is allowed to make tamales?
The topic of cultural appropriation is both big and nuanced; every incident deserves thoughtful consideration.
Tamales, one of the oldest and most highly adaptable foods on this continent, have long been sold by people from every background, from itinerant European immigrant hawkers on the streets of New York City to Mexican families selling them off wagons in turn-of-the-century Los Angeles. They continue to be a point of entry for street vendors and fledgling food entrepreneurs.
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