New York’s most enduring bialy bakery is expanding—and new eateries exploring the Jewish diaspora are opening.
In Mimi Sheraton’s book “The Bialy Eaters,” from 2000, she entertains, and soundly dismisses, a theory that the bialy, a bagel-adjacent Jewish roll, originated not in Bialystok, Poland, but in New York.
I like my bialys sliced, but barely adorned. Are Kossar’s as good as they ever were? Sheraton would disapprove of the still raw onions in the wells of the half-dozen I brought home, and would find the bread itself too pale. But toasting and buttering one filled me with a rush of happy nostalgia. At a point in history when the art of Ashkenazi food seems ever threatened, it’s heartening to see the growth of a legacy business.
Fine & Schapiro, a deli on West Seventy-second Street, closed in 2020, after ninety-three years in business, but it was swiftly replaced by an outpost of the Upper East Side’s Pastrami Queen, a fully kosher establishment that changed its name from Pastrami King when it moved from Queens in 1998, after forty-two years. On a recent afternoon, as the youngest Pastrami Queen customer by about fifty years, I enjoyed a bowl of chicken soup with kreplach and a chocolate egg cream.
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