From our March '24 issue, the Neng Jr.’s head chef cooks up steak frites with compound uni butter, tamarind fries, and garlic aioli.
, the intimate Filipinx eatery making waves in Asheville, North Carolina, you might get the chance to see Silver Iocovozzi douse a perfectly cooked cut of tenderloin in their homemade demi-glace. “My station is in front of everyone at the bar,” Iocovozzi, whose restaurant was named one of the, told us. “When that moment happens, everyone’s happy to see it.” But we wanted to know how Silver gets there, so we asked for a lesson in making their twistThe spirit of Neng’s is based on my track record.
I’ll truss each portion to keep the protein tight, so it doesn’t produce uneven cooking. I’ll generously season each side with lots of salt and really crushed ground pepper that still has bite. I’ll get the grill really hot and I’ll sear it for a while. Don’t touch it. Just let it cook. You’ll notice on the other side of the filet that it’s starting to cook through the protein when it browns on the side. Then, you can flip it. All you’re thinking about is getting that crust.
My station is in front of everyone at the bar, so when I make this dish, they’re like, “Oh my god, is that mine? I hope it’s mine.” The moment you pour the demi-glace on the steak, everyone’s excited to see it. Aioli is a really beautiful skill to develop. It’s three egg yolks to one quart of oil. It’s basically like making mayonnaise, but with garlic as your flavor agent. Lemon juice, salt, garlic, egg yolks. Since we make so much, we use a food processor, but I could easily do it by hand—just a wet rag underneath the mixing bowl and whisk constantly so you’re not breaking the sauce when you’re adding the oil slowly.
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