The essential flavors of Los Angeles
is always the most satisfying. The broth, rich with funk, is sprinkled with a green confetti burst of cilantro, a bit of brightness atop the soup’s murky depths. Meatballs bob on the surface beside slices of beef, tendon, liver, feathery tripe and comma curls of pig skin. I make sure to take at least a bite or two of the cracker-crisp pig skin before it yields to the broth and softens.
This isn’t a dish for eaters with tender palates, yet in its complexity and assertiveness, its blend of sweet and acid and undercurrents of chile heat and, yes, pork blood, I consider it one of the essential dishes of Los Angeles. Boat noodles, or kuay teow rua, may have come from someplace else — Thailand’s Rangsit Prayoonsak canal, as the story goes, in the northern suburban reaches of greater Bangkok — but that makes sense.
I was born in an East L.A. hospital on Olympic Boulevard, just a four-minute drive from Raul Ortega’s
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