Mugler Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Casey Cadwallader’s Mugler has always mined a contrarian seam. To a certain extent, it has had to: Frustrated by the original Thierry Mugler fans who long for a return to Vegas-style spectacles, perhaps without considering how the founder sat at the helm of a multimillion-dollar couture house with the resources to match, Cadwallader has forged his own provocative path toward capturing the collective imagination.
Next up: Shifting back to the regular seasonal schedule and production cycle with a spring show that constituted something of a mini reset. The label adopted a see-now, buy-now model during the pandemic, unveiling collections during couture weeks. Now it’s business as usual, albeit one buoyed by a frenzied reaction to its H&M collaboration in May that saw Mugler megafans queuing around the block and some pieces selling out online within eight minutes.
Unsurprisingly, the collaboration gave his team, which has grown from 18 when he started in 2018 to 42 today, the requisite morale boost required to keep pushing the envelope. And it seems to have given Cadwallader the confidence to approach a Thierry predilection for bestiary that he had previously avoided, for fear of the results being “too costumey.” For spring, he admitted with a chuckle, he’d channeled his love of octopuses and jellyfish into high-voltage, highly theatrical designs.
On a stripped-back, snow white runway lined with mechanical fans and bright lights, Cadwallader unleashed his aquarium. The opening look was made up of a resin body plate with exaggerated hips and a wisp of chiffon trailing behind a prowling Mariacarla Boscono.
That joyous reaction was impressive when you consider it came at the end of the penultimate day of PFW, when everyone’s feeling a little jaded. But there are a lot of shoppers who see themselves in a label that strives to be genuinely inclusive—and not just as a marketing ploy.
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