Mike Sutter’s Top 10 country cafes from San Antonio to the Hill Country

The best chicken-fried steak, plate-size pancakes and Texas-size stories from cafes in...

Grumpy's Mexican Cafe on FM 2252 is one of the Top 10 country cafes in and around San Antonio.Ten miles north of downtown Fredericksburg, out in the middle of nowhere, you can see the painted steel roof announcing Hill Top Cafe shimmering like a mirage off the blacktop of U.S. 87.

Brenda passed away in 2016, and Johnny still plays gigs at Hill Top, and the Saxon Pub and C-Boys in Austin. But mostly he’s in the kitchen, making gumbo, getting chicken-fried steak ready for the hot oil that transforms it into some of the best in the Hill Country. But somewhere is catching up to nowhere fast, and Hill Top won’t be alone forever. And that’s the story of the country cafe, the story of us all. We’re born, we branch out, we build communities around us, we come back to ourselves, we pass on the best to the next generation.

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