The resurrection of a half-century San Antonio restaurant name comes with rewards and...
What both audiences will find is a shabby-chic space hung on the bones of a two-story house built less than 20 years after the battle of the Alamo, with the kind of rococo glam of an eccentric aunt whose money goes way back but never found its way all the way back.Downstairs, the floors swirl with gold epoxy. The lounge mixes Mad Men modern and blue velvet plush chairs with a white-top marble bar against a backdrop of green walls.
Duck with oyster sauce and oyster mushrooms is part of the dinner menu at Fig Tree Restaurant at La Villita on the River Walk in San Antonio.It’s elegant, as long as you don’t look too closely. Rough around the edges. The waitstaff’s dressed in black, formal in a way, but not so formal that it kept a floor captain from cursing out one waiter and barking table assignments to another in the dining room.
The best food at Fig Tree smoothed out those rough edges. Perfect slices of duck dressed in sweet, aromatic oyster sauce shared a plate with oyster mushrooms dense and earthy enough to function as entrees on their own. “Butcher Steak” has a roadhouse ring to it, if that roadhouse were a Parisian steakhouse instead, trimmed in two neat cylinders seared all the way around with a blushing center, dressed with vinaigrette and onions over silky mashed potatoes.
We love to complain about salt. To the point that some kitchens are afraid of it. Not here. An expert hand knows the right shake, and salt amplified the earthiness, the tanginess, the complexity of almost everything it touched at Fig Tree, especially fresh clams with handmade agnolotti pasta. Simple, no? No. Tomato and garlic drew the clams into a tight conspiracy with the agnolotti, stuffed with sausage like a reserve battalion of flavor.
Fig Tree Restaurant at La Villita reopened with a new owner in 2022 on the River Walk in San Antonio.At brunch, a wild-mushroom omelet with crispy potatoes suggested a kitchen that knows how to fluff an egg, with crispy potatoes that took their sidekick gig seriously.
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