The new multicourse dessert restaurant at San Antonio's Pullman Market comes with a pedigree and a price tag.
In the mixed metaphor arts, Nicosi is the MMA champion. It’s Willy Wonka, it’s the Wizard of Oz, it’s the Food Network Live . It’s the multicourse dessert bar that opened in June at Pullman Market at Pearl . It’s an experiment conducted in real time, with real money and no phones allowed, an experiment in the places dessert can take us, and our willingness to follow a pastry chef down the yellow brick road to get there. And Nicosi is that chef’s middle name.
Mike Sutter’s all-day guide Bristol-Joseph’s story was told by his second-in-command on my nights at Nicosi. In her introduction, chef de cuisine Karla Espinosa called the Nicosi experience a blind date. I’d call it a psychosomatic exercise in the power of suggestion, the ability of the staff to make you believe that what they’re saying is what you’re tasting. Nicosi is a lot like faith: You gotta believe to receive. And you gotta follow the rules.
Mike Sutter’s review of Ladino at Pearl The whole production was a grand display of dinner theater, set in a room built exactly for that, with floor-to-ceiling velvet drapes. The scene pulsed with techno music, the kind that usually comes with bottle service and sparklers. There were occasional lapses in the theater, some splinters in the fourth wall, with botched lighting queues and music bouncing up and down like a noisy upstairs neighbor, interrupting and stepping on the chef’s monologue.
Rye Hospitality Bitter MMA CRITIC Dippin' Dots Mike Sutter Pearl Karla Espinosa Espinosa Willie Wonka Margherita DAY AT PULLMAN Emmer Marge Simpson Meet Pullman Isidore Freudian Ladino Mixtli San Antonio Pullman Market Tavel Bristol-Joseph Canje Guyana Austin Texas Caribbean Spanish RYE Mexican Ethiopian Basque Lollapalooza Ring Of Fire Food Network Live James Beard Award Carrot Colada Liquid Piccadilly Raspas Pop Rocks Fizzy Lifting Drink Wizard Of Oz
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