Daily News | Middle Child Clubhouse is an engaging new restaurant balancing familiarity with clever remakes
rye with Duke’s mayo, bacon, and arugula dressed in a vinaigrette made from the tomatoes’ strained juices. When it’s perfectly built, the red, yellow, and green hues inside glow like a stop light, one that triggers my open-jawed reflex to “Go!”
His thriving business over the past four years, a 16-seat sandwich shop dynamo near Jefferson Hospital, is as much a tribute to his attention to details, genuine passion, and locally-sourced ingredients as it is to marketing savvy. At the Clubhouse, a much larger all-day space with a bar and ambitious dinner menu, we experience Cahn’s idea of an essential neighborhood restaurant for 2022. It makes it clear that the Middle Child brand is not so much about sandwiches.
The breakfast and lunch menus are the same in Fishtown as the ones at the original Middle Child, with all orders taken at the counter Formerexecutive chef Dan Britt, who now oversees the daytime operations, cited the progressive workplace culture at Middle Child, with its fair wage distribution and collaborative decision making, as a personal draw.
The dinner service from nighttime chef Adam Sosnowik also turned-out some luxuries I never dreamed would be on my Middle Child bingo card: Snails with shaved truffles and stracciatella over cloud-like focaccia? Salt-roasted and brûléed kohlrabi with caviar? The roe offered yet another accent of high-low deli attitude to the five-layered dip with smoked cultured cream and horseradish for the airy onion rings, which were perfect until they were dusted with powdered vinegar salt for one flourish too many. ASome of my favorite dishes were those that appeared deceptively simple.
There were a few dishes I didn’t love. The brick chicken was an example of why chicken is not ideal for confit, a slow-cooking technique best for tougher flesh, like duck legs. The chicken’s meat was so overcooked it dissolved into paste when I took a bite. I also had high hopes for the veggie patty melt, bound with shredded beets, beans, and yuca. But it, too, was mush when I took a bite.on
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