Mfpen Copenhagen Spring 2025 collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Like a good playlist, Mfpen ’s latest collection evokes emotions that exist almost outside of time. Though there are hesitant dabs of light blue and pale yellow, the clothes are mostly rendered in a palette of moody grays and blacks that hardly scream “spring.” Ditto for materials like pinstripe . Because Mfpen uses only deadstock fabric, textile and color choice are somewhat limited, but this is also a choice on the part of designer Sigurd Bank.
This collection is not a meditation on melancholy; rather Bank, with blue eyes sparkling, explained that he put aside hardcore music for a moment to listen to the late-’90s post-punk he first heard as a teenager in Jutland in the early aughts. The designer’s been drawn to the underlying gentleness in the music, which put him in a mood “reminiscent of teenage romance and just also how teenage romance always brings teenage heartbreak in a way.
Bank was after that feeling of awkwardness and dressing up that comes with wearing something that’s not yours—like your dad’s suit for a date. Is it a costume or a trial run? Do the garments hide the self or reveal it? One member of the team told Bank that as a teen she would leave the house in a parent-friendly outfit that she’d peel off to reveal something more daring. “I know that’s probably very common, but wow.
That story impacted the way the collection is styled; note the shirt worn as a skirt. That idea of concealment and perhaps coded communication feels very Mfpen. The label’s brand of cool is difficult to describe. Nothing shouts. It might look well worn, and in fact could be made of vintage fabric, but it isn’t old, though once you learn that Bank’s grandfather owned a haberdashery, you can see that in the clothes, which deconstruct the lexicon of men’s tailoring and corporate attire.
Copenhagen Spring 2025 Runway_Review Runway
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