Pandemic or not, here they come.
The COVID-19 pandemic and resulting lockdowns put a strain on not only burgeoning designers but big-name labels, as the fashion industry struggled to see a reality for future fashion weeks. As New York Fashion Week is set to kick off on Sunday, Sept.
. 13, many designers are taking new approaches. Some will continue to show with in-person events , while others have refused to show at all, most especially big marquee names, like Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Pyer Moss, and Proenza Schouler, to name only a few. Others have found new ways to present their new collections, from short films to digital lookbooks. Despite the peculiar circumstances, there are still designers who will make their official New York Fashion Week debuts this month. Some brands, including Frère and Wolk Morais, are already established in the industry with celebrity clientele, and others are eagerly entering into uncharted fashion week territory. Get to know 14 of the brands and designers, including Aknvas, Dur Doux, Presley Oldham, and more, making their debut at New York Fashion Week for the Spring 2021 season, below.Prior to launching his first independent brand Aknvas, designer Christian Juul Nielsen worked under John Galliano at Dior before becoming the creative director for Herve Leger. Nielsen will be showing his first menswear collection under Aknvas this fashion week, conceiving the idea for a men's capsule line during his time in quarantine.. "I've always been drawn to cotton shirting, but wanted to make it fresh and relevant, especially to fit our changing lifestyle. When styling the women's lookbook, I incorporated many of the men's pieces. I think people are wearing what they want and what feels right, not sticking to the gendered categories."on her way to accepting her award for best actress in 2013.The Chicago-born menswear designer, who founded her label in 2015, studied at Parsons and Central Saint Martins, as well as worked as a design intern at Wes Gordon. Colleen Allen pays little attention to the role of gender in her work, despite being labeled as a menswear designer. "I never intended on gender being a main theme of my work. People started questioning my intentions after my first collection and it sort of caught me off guard,". "I was just portraying men how I saw them, as a reflection of my personal worldview. I think being a woman designing for men is a big part of this. I thought well why can't men experiment with different elements of style each season like women do? If you're into ruffles one season and military jackets the next, that doesn't mean you're changing your gender identity or sexuality. I think it's exciting to give men options to have fun with clothes. For women, it's commonly accepted that the way they dress is an extension of their personality. But for men, once you hit a certain age you get stuck in this uniform. I'm really starting to explore and subvert these societal expectations."Najla Burt and Cynthia Burt make up the mother-daughter team behind Dur Doux, a brand creating affordable luxury based on the translation of the label's name, which in French means "hard soft." The women made a deliberate choice in the beginning to keep a low personal profile and let the clothes speak for themselves.. "We deliberately wanted people to make their own judgments about who they thought we were. Are we French? Are we European? [Staying out of the limelight] worked for us."as global partnerships and creative strategy lead at Estée Lauder, where she oversaw brands like MAC, Bobbi Brown, Clinique, and La Mer. Her role at Estée Lauder gave her the tools to navigate building her own brand and persevere during a pandemic. "We remain extremely optimistic and vigilant on the future. In this time, the Duncan brand ethos is more relevant than ever before and we will continue to create armor for the multifaceted female,"
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