Meet Hugo Duran, the chef who’s celebrating indigenous Mayan food.
—the master of corn. This expertise is abundantly clear, as Paula’s creations serve as building blocks for Ka’an’s menu. Paula is Zapotec, from a town called Candelaria Loxicha, in the Costa region of Oaxaca; she left this town, and her family, to work with chef Hugo at Ka’an. A former farmer and merchant, Paula sold her products to Duran in a Oaxacan market before the two were formally introduced. He loved her, so much so that he approached her to lead the corn program at Ka’an.
With no access to centralized plumbing or gas, and only a small generator supplying electricity, the kitchen largely relies on wood fire, bringing smoky, earthy aromas to the dishes. Many chefs would be discouraged by the lack of modern amenities, but Duran embraced this approach, wanting the kitchen to directly reflect where the food it produces originates: Mayan village life.Halfway through the meal, next up is yet another one of Paula’s specialties: the tamal.
Finally, we receive our concluding dish: Lengua, or tender beef tongue braised with leaves of cinnamon, allspice, and clove. After the first braise, the beef is then braisedin red bean broth, and served with charred and fermented cabbage. The tongue is delicate, with slightly pungent and bitter notes from the cabbage.Hoja santa–wrapped pargo with citrus and huitlacoche.
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