The Masha Popova spring 2023 collection has arrived. See every look:
“It’s got a dark energy,” said Masha Popova of the collection presented at her first-ever runway show this afternoon. Why dark? “Because there’s so much shit happening in the world generally, and in my life.” Fair enough. The Odessa-born Ukrainian native—who had returned there from London for a year until the Russian invasion in February—added: “It’s been such a stressful time that I felt like screaming all the time. Which was the starting point for this.
Popova channeled that rage into a fine and furious collection whose central motif was tire treads, the result of her imagining driving fast—very fast—with the music up high and screaming in frustration. Instead of the sound of her screams, hard to realize in clothing, it was the screech of her tires through which Popova figuratively expressed that dark energy.
Jersey T-shirts with overprinted tire treads and some long jersey evening dresses that looked reverse-embossed with tire trails were two rare exceptions to the general dominance of denim. Popova said that she loves the fabric for its versatility: “It carries character, emotion, and energy. Denim can express many different feelings.” Within denim, the furious-driver detailing continued with doughnut-style spirals in washed, faded relief and in the folds of her strong-shoulder minidresses.
Cleverly rendered iridescent slicks up each knee, or sometimes just in oily black, were a slight stretch of the automotive metaphor but looked great nonetheless. A superclever stitched and pleated strapless minidress combined stretch and cling to epitomize the postindustrial toughness of the collection more broadly.
Popova’s butterfly top has helped her flutter into view via social media: Today she wisely offered two new variations, shaped and embroidered after a scorpion and a dragonfly. This might have been Popova’s first runway lap on the fashion circuit, but she navigated it like a pro—it will be fascinating to watch her experiments in denim develop.
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