Mary H.K. Choi (choitotheworld) on food as a love language, the best bodega snacks, and her new novel, “Permanent Record”
By now, we’re sitting in a coffee shop on the same block as Green Ivy, pairing our drinks with our snack haul. It becomes clear, as Choi picks up each product encased in plastic packaging, that she is just as much of a munchies expert as Pablo. “This is more substantial and toothsome,” she says, palming a Ritter Sport milk chocolate square with cornflakes, before moving on to Darrell Lea mango-flavored soft Australian licorice. “This is really toothsome, too.
It’s similar to the way Pablo — otherwise aimless, caught in stasis, wont to treat everything and everyone with a distance that masks the question mark looming over his future — talks about food in.
When it comes to Pablo’s cooking, there are no such uncertainties or preconceived limitations. He experiments, mixes, and remixes, creating fusion food in the truest sense of the word: Shin Ramyun Black instant noodles with cut-up hot dogs, kimchi, and other add-ons; bacon, egg, and cheese in a pan-fried glazed honey bun; frozen saag paneer naan-chos layered with yogurt and crushed Takis. “I feel as though I’m joining a pack.
Her parents — both restaurateurs whom she describes as “not demonstrative people,” whose “love language” is food — still live in Texas, where Choi’s family moved when she was 14, after Hong Kong. She misses them a lot, and she misses the food that tastes of home.
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