Cult perfumer Marissa Zappas joined Andreas Keller of Olfactory Art Keller to talk about finding your fragrance and the scent renaissance.
We’re currently in the midst of a reinvention of scent. What was once the most neglected of the five senses is gaining attention in a fragrant craze, from viral PerfumeToks to higher-brow artistic takes at galleries like, the smell showroom curated by Andreas Keller that invites visitors to play an Odor Organ and feed smelly objects to a GPT-4 powered smell predictor in a compact space on Henry Street.
KELLER: That’s interesting. Smell does confuse. In the gallery, every once in a while there’s a group of people who disagree about how something smells and there’s no way of resolving that. KELLER: People have spent their entire careers trying to define art and nobody ever came up with anything that seemed satisfying. So I don’t think there’s a dividing line between an artist and a perfumer. Perfume has to comply with certain safety standards and it has to be stable for more than a day to be useful. So it limits what you can do creatively.
KELLER: Yeah. And the smell language is made up to facilitate communication amongst smell professionals. So oceanic smells don’t really smell like the ocean.
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